Object Title

Mail and fabric coat (kazaghand)

Mail and fabric coat (kazaghand)

Date

1600-1699

Object Number

XXVIA.304

Provenance

Purchased from Robert Hales Antiques, 1999, no. 88. Originally from the Bikaner armoury, Rajasthan.

Physical Description

Comprises a long coat opening down the front with long sleeves and very full long skirts. The exterior of the coat is covered with a rather open weave cotton fabric that is now a pale beige but may have been white. Under the outer fabric is a thin layer of wadding, possibly kapok, and a further layer of the cotton fabric, then the mail followed by another layer of cotton, a thicker layer of wadding and another layer of cotton. Finally, the coat was lined with a finer cotton cloth printed with a design of carnations and foliage in purple and black, parts of which survive inside the sleeves. The main body of the coat has been relined with a yellow cotton cloth decorated with cross hatched lines and floral medallions in black and grey.
The construction of the coat involves a bodice section to which are attached separate sleeves, themselves being made from an upper and a lower portion. The edges of the bodice section are extended to overlap. There are now no traces of fastenings. The skirts are extensivly pleated at the waist where they sew onto the bodice, overlap at the front and have short slits at either side.
The mail, which does not extend into the front overlap, reaches only to the upper thighs and to just below the elbows. It consists of alternate rows of riveted and punched links.

Dimensions

Dimensions: The length of the coat from shoulder to waist is 490 mm, from the waist to the hem is 740 mm. The width of the front skirt at the hem is 1040 mm and the split at the side is 250 mm. The coat has a chest measurement of 520 mm and a waist measurement of 500 mm. Weight: The weight of the coat is 11.8 kg.

Inscriptions and Marks

None

Associations

Places India